Trim stems from the spinach. Tear into bite-size shreds. Set aside. In a small bowl, chop the onion, and mix with ginger and garlic. Set aside. Slice the Brie into small chunks.

To assemble the salad, line a very large bowl with an ample layer of greens. Sprinkle the onions on top. Next, top with Brie slices, then bulgur. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up. Drizzle with the oil and lemon juice, top with the grated Cheddar. Serve forth.

Elunid, chef at the Cnapan Hotel in Newport, Pembrokeshire has the luxury of including wild land- and sea-greens in the vegetarian dishes she serves. We had to settle for domestic greens. The cracked wheat, while not native to Welsh cookery, is common in other cultures: witness the variety of bulgur-based salads in Middle Eastern cooking. It adds substance to the salad and permits it to serve as a meal for vegetarian diners

While the salad tested quite well, our patrons were unimpressed. Or maybe just incurious, too busy gorging themselves on the Roast Dragon.