Broil the pork chops, unseasoned, 6 minutes on the first side, and 5 on the reverse, depending on their distance from the flame. Serve with a full pound of the Kartoffelnsalat and two pickles.

The classic accompaniment would be boiled buttered potatoes or turnips, mashed perhaps (the Welsh dish of Punch-nep is exactly that: equal quantities of the two roots boiled and mashed together with butter. See Hartley), but we thought we should try for something bolder of texture, taste, and color. A fresh green salad would be just about perfect, but a British salad is kind of like a sunny London day: a good idea, but it doesn't really exist. So we leapt across the Channel to the land of those other great eaters of pork, Germany, and borrowed their recipe for potato salad.